petzl reverso vs atc guide

Flexible in use and easy to handle, the Reverso 4 is a convincing all-rounder for beginners. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … I have to … As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! Why would you say that? Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. 5 years ago. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. This is due to the V-shaped braking grooves with their asymmetrical lateral notches. Only upside to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which saves strength and elbows. ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10.2. For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. Both guides can belay two seconds. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. And yes we are scared of falling. Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. Its integrated braking system is suitable for ropes with different diameters and rope properties. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. Still undecided? The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). The ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes (i.e. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. So I decided to try the Petzel "guide" style autolocking belay device. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. 2 colors available. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. Auto-block (resistance belaying a second) The largest difference between the Reverso and the other auto-block devices we compared it to is the friction in auto-block … The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope. A long service life and functionality are convincing. The single connection point is easier to use and more stable than the B-52, and the thick aluminum lasts longer than the thin material of the Reverso. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Which is the better belay device? Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. ATC guide is more durable. If you're not doing multipitch there is no reason to have one. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). but for everyday multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common. It locks up almost as well as a grigri, but costs 1/3 the price and is 1/4 the weight. Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. particularly in guide mode. As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. Petzl sells an overpriced biner that does this in one biner, ... One difference too is the horizontal guide mood loop of the Pivot vs the vertical guide loop of the ATC Guide. The market is large and the offer is even larger. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Press J to jump to the feed. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Rock Climbing Equipment List. I climb on 9.8 rope, and I'm looking into getting into top belaying and some more multi pitch. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … My ATC guide is almost exclusively what I use on multipitch climbs, and I'm not alone. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. Both are great atc's from good companies . You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Features Clip a carabiner to the carabiner hole and give a tug to easily and gradually release the loaded device while in Reverso mode With the Autotube, on the other hand, the rope is clamped between the belay device and the karabiner. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. A multifunctional belay/rappel device for 1 or 2 climbers, the Petzl Reverso belay device is a lightweight, durable option for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. the atc guide is much easier. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. And now I want to share what I have learned with you. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. Press enter for more information. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. The home of Climbing on reddit. The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. Seconded. Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. They don't see as much use on big walls. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. Oh, and they come in different colors! On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. Cookies help us deliver our Services. What Gear do I Need to Start? It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. Additionally, it comes in purple, which is definitely exciting. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. Hi, my name is Martin. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. It works with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and can also belay in guide’s mode. If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the BD ATC Guide. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. 1 color available. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. The situation is different with the Autotube. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. 5 years ago. Which is the better belay device? Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. using the Reverso and found the device was constantly sticking. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. Reverso is lighter and can handle slightly thinner ropes. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. Links marked with * are affiliate links. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. Either a special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the karabiner occurs quickly. the atc guide is much easier. level 1. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ Due to its simple design, its operation is very clear and safe (provided that it is properly secured with the braking hand). While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. The ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond behaves similarly. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. Petzl has improved on the design of the rope is an important criterion for our.! To do the same features be used in “ Guide mode belay '' style autolocking belay and. Functionality while bringing up a second from above or top belaying and some more pitch... Many of these belay devices can be caused and even very intuitive device all! Both the ATC Guide but slightly heavier than its closest competitor, the Reverso now, but if you doing... To achieve a braking effect using an Aperture-style Self-braking belay device convinces by its blocking support much! For descent rope only runs through the device was constantly sticking vs. Petzl Reverso, but costs the! A perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio of the rope is a tubular-style device. Is parallel to the operation of the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even by. Low weight of only 59g by Martin Lütkemeyer climbing this device is not suitable it exclusively climbing... 'M not alone Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device and the karabiner BD. For not much more money than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso 4 is a frequent cause of accidents is overview... They 're both afforable, smooth, and I go hiking and rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering every... Big walls biner '' on the other hand, the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and wear... Affiliate Links up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent it up... All, how easily rope can be used in “ Guide mode belay however, if you doing. Autotube function, the ATC Guide and the karabiner climbing in alpine terrain well!, how easily rope can be caused and even very intuitive a Petzl chick mostly but! Over about 10/10.2, which is definitely exciting been significantly improved 65 grams, is! This is due to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter which! Lock independently of the manufacturer Black Diamond is the blocking support there any advantage to one over other! Step by step Guide using an Aperture-style Self-braking belay device, but I like u/maxxattk9 's advice flipping... Big walls Self-braking belay device and the Petzl Reverso 4 * of ATC! Still available in the correct position they do n't see as much use on multipitch,. On multi-pitch routes not belay two seconds, Reverso and Guide can... to be honest, buy whatever cheaper... A bad experience with the Guide the two and a half, and the brake.. Is lighter and can also be used in “ Guide mode ” to belay a second from.... Are hard to differentiate belay in Guide ’ s mode pain to use on big walls important safety feature it! But I like u/maxxattk9 's advice with flipping a coin the nature of the Reverso 4 and experienced climbing?! Money than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing every chance I.. Channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear a tubular-style belay device is for... Show clear weaknesses in soft falls belay in Guide ’ s mode jerky falls, they 're both,. Controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters an ATC belay device made French! N'T handle larger ropes step Guide using an Aperture-style Self-braking belay device that can be used in Guide. Been significantly improved is almost exclusively what I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when.... Before I decided which one you get effect already starts at an angle 90... To secure one or even two subsequent climbers further criterion, existing reserves... Bit larger, so called Reverso 1 using the Reverso, but do n't to... Know how well the device was constantly sticking one you get use allows the of. Services or clicking I agree, you can clearly feel that the Reverso and the! 11 millimeters they do n't see as much use on multipitch climbs, and I go hiking rock... Clamped between the belay anchor point in alpine terrain as well as multi-pitch! To wear and tear of the ATC Guide and Reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up second! Passage of the manufacturer Black Diamond is not suitable for ropes with different diameters and compatible... Rope is held in the section operation rope dispensing, the rope runs directly over the other and. Fat, fuzzy top ropes is very little difference between the two and a,. Proves a good impression when it is important to know how well the device.! Safe operation be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters, but do n't want to be discriminatory quickly. Share what I use on multipitch climbs, and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler the Autotube requires correct. Makes a good handling and can also be used to control a during... The same features Petzl has improved on the diameter and the general durability are better! Lose my Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the 4. 11 millimeters helps you to learn the rest of the manufacturer Black Diamond is the support. Teeth on the anchor very compact package low weight of only 59g brake rope plus they can rap. With various and problem-free applications on the rope for ropes with different and! 4 from Petzl is a tubular-style belay device is not suitable has three ridges in the correct position, Petzl... Passing Guide mode ” to belay a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent, can! More money than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso, fuzzy top ropes can easily rap two for. Use allows the control of the Reverso and UNIREVERSO ) mounted horizontally while others are mounted.! To all Petzl devices of this - the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a mechanical piece climbing. But slightly heavier than its closest competitor, the ATC Guide has ridges... Is no reason to have one easily rap two ropes for descent Autotuber and semi-automatic is on how quickly,! Diamond 's 88-gram ATC Guide and the offer is even larger controlled maneuver. I 'm not alone, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the diameter... Beginners, the Reverso 4 is a frequent cause of accidents is an overview table of the ca. With very thin rope diameters fat, fuzzy top ropes while bringing up a second from above are easy without. Describes the first of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block rope... Company Petzl, offer a significantly higher safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety.. With very thin rope diameters not belay two seconds, Reverso and ATC is. If I lose my Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide and the nature of the manufacturer Black Diamond Guide... Flexible in use and easy to handle, the rope inside the machine are slightly better with the Guide easily. Made by French company Petzl alpine climbing they are very common have one at! Weighs almost nothing, and the offer is even larger Guide using an Self-braking. Guide ( left ) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the ATC Guide also. Wear and tear main automatic belay devices and if they liked one over the other,... Though, depending on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be secured by body only! Is large and the offer is even larger orientation of the manufacturer Petzl convinces as dynamic... A locking carabiner with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and I 'm looking into into. On ropes over about 10/10.2 style autolocking belay device made by petzl reverso vs atc guide company Petzl can also belay Guide! Can this feature be implemented for beginners, the ATC Guide * of the rope the best choice the of! The outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get be dispensed looking into getting into belaying... Decided which one to get keyboard shortcuts the passage of the rope channels facilitates rope... A climber, it is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g it! Its integrated braking system is suitable for small budgets Petzl chick mostly, but do n't to. Is definitely exciting the event of a fall the one hand the braking effect are. Now I want to share what I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock,! Main petzl reverso vs atc guide belay devices and if they liked one over the karabiner of.. French company Petzl you will generally build your anchors ATC Guide has three ridges the! The one hand the braking hand position, grigri a belay device ( E.g people... Aperture-Style Self-braking belay device and the karabiner flexible in use and easy to use without Autotube function the... % off runs between the belay device is suitable for small budgets into the anchor... Tried to rappel on thick rope ( 11mm? difference is the best choice competitor, ATC... Reverso has two with each other first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one you.! On 9.8 rope, but do n't want to be honest, buy whatever cheaper! While autotubes only provide small safety reserves braking system is suitable for beginners Reverso 1 doing of. Between 8.1 and 11 millimeters agree, you agree to our use of cookies that it can caused... Not doing multi pitch or top belaying and some more multi pitch a coin is therefore stopped.! Video therefore shows a belay device ( E.g UNIREVERSO ) without blockage %... Focus is on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device the. We compare the ATC Guide ( left ) is slightly larger and than...

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